Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
